Ron Hines DVM Ph.D. 4/29/06

Forsaking the litter box and urinating in inappropriate areas is the most common behavioral problem I see in cats and the most troublesome problem cat owners face. Included in this group of cats are those that pick areas of the house in which to urinate (and sometimes defecate) as well as cats that spray mark the house with urine.

Well why does my cat do this when it knows how much it irritates me?
When we teach our pets to urinate in one specific area we are going against the natural instincts of cats to mark all their possessions and territory. Cats that break house training generally do it because of stress and not for a desire to get even with their owners. Because there was no harm intended by the cat, it is futile to punish them when these events occur.

Medical Reasons:
A bit fewer than half the cats that soil in the house have some medical problem that makes them do so. The most common cause I see is irritation of the lower urinary tract and bladder. This disease complex is called Feline Urological Syndrome or F.U.S. In this disease, crystals form in the cat’s urine causing inflammation, and painful, frequent urination. Early in this disease, some cats get the urge to urinate in exotic places such as the closet or bathroom sink.

Diseases that cause a cat to drink more also lead to urinary accidents. Two of these diseases are hyperthyroidism and diabetes. In these conditions increased thirst increases the need to urinate. Cats that have to urinate more frequently are more at risk of urine accidents. A third cause of excessive thirst is disease of the kidney. Here, cats drink more to keep waste from building up in their blood stream.

Less common than urinary accidents are stool accidents. The majority of cats with this problem do not have organic disease. They are just not as tidy as the average cat. :But it is still wise to rule out problems of the lower intestine that might cause increased urgency to defecate. These problems include parasites, food allergies, eating sticks, grass and other non-food material.

As cats age arthritis, neurological disease and other debilitating diseases can also cause a break in litter box training.

Problems Due To The Litter Box Itself:
Anything that makes the litter box a less desirable place will cause the cat to seek other places to eliminate. Concentrate on the box itself, its cleanliness, its location and the quality of the litter.

Cats are very sensitive to odors. Their sense of smell is over a thousand times as acute as ours. If the litter box is not being cleaned frequently enough cats will avoid it. The odor of chemicals and detergents used to clean the box will also deter a cat from using the box. Using a closed litter box system makes these problems even worse by holding in odors.

Litter boxes with high sides are particularly difficult for older cats and kittens to use. Try to find a compromise height that keeps litter from scattering but is still comfortable to the cat.

The texture and composition of litter is very important to some cats. No two cats are alike in this respect so experiment with different products. Try to find a litter that is dust free. My favorite is recycled shredded paper. Most cats prefer litter that is not perfumed or scented.

Location:
The location of the litter box is also very important to your cat. Do not place litter boxes in noisy areas or areas where there is a lot of in and out activity. Many cats like their litter boxes in an area that is well lit. Multi-cat households do better with multiple litter boxes. Try to keep litter boxes on tile or vinyl surfaces because carpet retains urine odor, which encourages accidents. As all of us who own cats know, once a cat becomes accustomed to eliminating in the wrong area it becomes a difficult habit to break. An example is cats with only intermittent urinary tract irritation. After once having eliminated in a cloth or carpeted area they will seek out that area even after the urinary tract problem has been cured with diet and medications.

Spraying:
Urine is a very important marking compound for cats allowing them to stake out territory and assert themselves. Oils from glands on the cat’s face are rubbed onto objects to accomplish the same thing. Both oils and urine let other cats know your cat owns this territory and that visitors are discouraged. They also announce when cats are ready to mate.

Unneutered tomcats and queens are worst about spraying objects and walls. They back up to objects lift their tails and squirt short streams of urine. This is normal feline behavior. Cats that are anxious and stressed for any reason are more likely to spray. This occurs most frequently in multi-cat households where territorial issues and rivalries occur more often. In these situations spayed females and neutered males may also spray. Cats roaming outside the house may be enough to cause indoor cats to spray. A new sofa or carpet may be marked when it first appears.

How To Handle The Problem

The longer one lets the problem persist the harder it becomes to end it. Try to look back over the preceding week remembering what changes have occurred in the cat’s environment. Attempt to change them to the condition they were in before the problem occurred. It is very uncommon for cats to begin to spray without a reason. If you have more than one cat keep them in separate rooms so you can determine the guilty party.

Remember that less than half of the cats have physical problems. Despite this fact, I generally look to a solution to this problem by doing a thorough physical examination of the cat. When F.U.S. is the problem, the bladder may be noticeably thickened. In these cats, urine is often positive for blood and struvite crystals. Cats with fecal elimination problems sometimes have diarrhea, gas-filled, loop of intestine or enlarged mesenteric lymph nodes. It is wise to draw blood from all cats for chemical analysis that measure kidney, liver and pancreatic function. When all these tests are negative, I feel more comfortable diagnosing a psycologic or environmental cause.

Dealing With A Psychological Problem:
Some cats refuse to use a litter box that is not scrupulously clean. Be sure to clean the box with dish detergent and rinse it well. The first thing to do when cleanliness is not an issue is to change the quality of the litter you use. Cats that miss the litter box do better with an absorbable litter than a clumping, granular type. If that does not correct the problem try relocating the litter box to a different area – preferably on an impervious surface.

If you have a number of cats the litter box may be within the territory of another of the cats. If so, the other cat may be too intimidated to use the box. When this is the case adding an additional litter box or two may do the trick. In general, have one more litter box than the number of cats in the house. Some cats feel more secure using a litter box that is not stationed in a corner or nook.
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Large cats like large litter boxes. Most cats prefer a box with low sides. Many cats also take issue with covered boxes, which restrict their visibility and hold odors.

Dealing With Cats That Spray:
Intact cats are more likely to spray than cats that have been neutered or spayed. If you have intact cats consider having them fixed. Usually it is another cat that induces a cat to spray urine to define its territory. If it is an outside cat that hangs around you house that is the problem, consider closing windows and blinds or trapping and relocating the unwelcome visitor. Lawn sprinklers can discourage visiting cats.

When it is a new cat in your household that has caused the problem consider separating the cats to different rooms and reintroducing them to each other gradually. Provide abundant treats to each cat during supervised visit. A useful product to use in these situations is Feliway, a synthetic pheromone or airborne hormone that tends to mellow cats and relieve anxiety*.

Anti-anxiety Medications:
Urine spraying often responds to medication with calming drugs such as Valium (diazepam) and Elavil (amytriptyline)**. I suggest that these drugs be given for limited periods of time while the other changes are made in the cat’s environment to eliminate the problem. Here are some hints and changes that may help:

1) Cats do not like to eat and eliminate in the same general area. Placing food bowels in areas that the cat soils sometimes stops the soiling behavior.
2) Covering objects that the cat soils with Saran wrap or plastic film may help.
3) Making areas that the cat soils off limits with gates and shut doors may brake bad habits.
4) Noisy objects such as fans, or radios may alter a cat’s behavior in problem areas.
5) Mouse traps set under newspaper or towels keep cats away from problem areas.
6) If you can catch your cat about to eliminate in a problem area you can chase it away and discourage the activity with a plant misting bottle, squirt gun or loud rattle. More severe forms of punishment do not help.
7) Many cats prefer unscented litter. Do not place too little in the box. Most cats like it two or three inches deep.
8) Many cats do not accept covered boxes as readily as open ones. Cats like to be able to see their surroundings when using the box.
9) Remove clumped litter every day and replace with fresh material.
10) Old plastic litter boxes become porous and retain odor. Replace them every year.
11) Scenting objects and areas that cats spray with cat pheromones * is sometimes helpful.

*Feliway® Abbott Laboratories 1401 North Sheridan Road, North Chicago, IL 60064

**The February 2005 issue of the Journal of the AVMA contains an study in which cats were given fluoxetine (Prozac) at 0.45mg/pound or clomipramine (Clomacalm, Anafranil) at 0.23mg/pound once a day for sixteen weeks. The drugs were both equally effective in controling urine spraying in the home. When the drugs were discontinued, the problem reoccured but stopped again when either drug was reinstituted.

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