Ain't Misbehavin' - Training Your Puppy

Ron Hines DVM PhD 5/4/06
1) Starting Out Right
Things To Do and Consider Before You Buy Your Puppy
Adopting or buying a puppy is a big responsibility. You are adding another
member to your family for the next 10 to 18 years. Are you ready for this
commitment? If you are reading these articles, your answer is probably
yes. Although individual temperament within a breed varies remarkably,
breeds of dog have distinctive personalities. These personalities relate
back to why the breed was developed. For For example, terriers were bred
for intelligence, and agility in catching rodents and small game. Some
are still quick and snappy in family situations - especially with children.
Labrador Retrievers are big and generally gentle and good-natured. Visit
kennels and breed club and get a feel for the temperament of the breeds
you are interested in. Some that are often particularly good around children
are Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Beagles, Basset Hounds, Collies, Boxers,
Pugs, Boston Terriers, Standard Poodles, Chesapeake Bay Retrievers and
Newfoundlands (see Picking the Right Dog for You and Your Family). Mixed
breed dogs can be just as affectionate and often have the temperament of
the predominating breed. They often also have less health problems. If
you adopt a mixed breed dog that is already an adult, you also know what
you are getting. Be cautious about purebred dogs obtained from shelters.
Unfortunately, they were often surrendered because of behavior or health
problems. The sex of the dog you adopt or buy is also important. As a group,
male dogs are more aggressive, territorial, independent and head strong.
Females are more tolerant, less likely to urinate to mark their territory
and sometimes more gentle, nurturing and loving. Where you obtain your
puppy from is extremely important. It is far and away the most important
decision you will face in obtaining your new family member. Rule number
one is never purchase a dog or puppy from a pet store. Any breeder worth
his salts would never send his pups to a pet store. It is the unscrupulous
breeder's product; the puppy that a breeder does not want to guarantee
and the unfortunate output of puppy mills that find their way to pet shops.
The most reliable way to find a good puppy is through the classified adds
section of your newspaper. You visit the breeder and observe both the parent
dogs. Then you ask for references including their veterinarian and satisfied
customers. Take whatever conversation that passes between you with a grain
of salt as you would with any salesman. Pedigree and awards (other than
field trial awards) mean very little when purchasing a pet. Actually, the
less awards the better. Rule number two is never rush into a purchase.
Take your time - there will be other puppies available. If this is not
the case, then you have picked the wrong breed or criteria. The seller
of a puppy should allow you to have it examined by your own veterinarian
before purchase. When you pick out a puppy, don't choose the largest or
the smallest, the bravest or the shyest. Pick one that is in between in
all respects.
2) What is The Best Age to Buy My Puppy?
The best age to buy your puppy is 8-12 weeks of age. They should not be separated
from their mother until they are 8 weeks of age. It is best to purchase one
puppy and not obtain another for an additional six months. Two puppies together
tend to have more problems. Beware of mature or half-grown puppies offered by
breeders. Mature or half-grown puppies from Animal Shelters are fine.
3) What Should I Look For In Choosing a Puppy?
Please read my article, Picking the Right Dog for You and Your Family which
is also on this website. Choosing the right puppy is so important - read
as much as you can on the subject disregarding A.K.C. and other profit-driven
advice
4) Do I Need to Puppy-Proof My House?
You most certainly do! Puppies are very destructive, fun-loving critters. Just
accept that if an object is within a puppy's reach, it is going to get chewed
up. Puppies have a deep-set urge to chew on any and everything. So make the
decision early on that the puppy will not have free range of your house. Plan
on it living temporarily on a porch, enclosed patio or other room with a mopable
floor that can be puppy-proofed. Puppies love to chew electrical wires, eat
inedible foams, cardboard and plastic, leather and cloth items. Most of these
items amazingly pass through the puppy without more than some colic and diarrhea.
Keep plenty of rawhide chew sticks thrown about and available for the puppy.
The next best thing to a room is a puppy playpen about the size of a child's
playpen. When you catch your puppy chewing on something he shouldn't reprimand
him with a sharp NO! and immediately given one of his chew toys. Then praise
him effusively. Children's toys make exceptionally poor and dangerous puppy
toys. There will be a lot of backsliding because their urge to chew is so great.
Don't criticize the puppy too much. Try to clear non-chewable items from his
environment instead. When items cannot be removed (such as doors, etc.) you
can spray them with bitters mist available from your veterinarian or pet supply
store. It is a combination of essence of bitter apple, cayenne pepper, and a
product I have never identified but which tastes like petrol. Amazingly, many
puppies will chew objects drenched in this brew.
5) How Should I handle Puppies and Small Children?
My children were about 7-8 years old before they were mature enough to
be with small puppies. If your children are younger, you might consider
delaying purchase of a puppy for a few years. If you do purchase a puppy
while you have younger children, you will need to keep both the kids and
the puppies under close supervision when they are together. Keep in mind
that the intestinal parasites of puppies can pass to children causing major
illness. I suggest that children under 7-8 years old be given stuffed animals
rather than live animals to play with. They are just too tough on a delicate
puppy. If you must purchase a puppy when your kids are younger, stay with
the larger working breeds such as Labrador or Golden Retrievers or adopt
a mature dog. Successful integration of children and puppies relies more
on teaching your children than on teaching the puppy. Your kids need to
be taught to cradle the pup when picking it up and holding it. They must
not to drop the puppy, shout, over play or fall on it. They should never
be allowed with the puppy unsupervised by a competent adult.
6) What Should I Expect on My Puppy's First Trip to the Vet?
Set an appointment with your veterinarian or one recommended by neighbors as
soon as possible. Ideally, it will before you have actually purchased this puppy
and can still return it to the breeder if the veterinarian detects problems.
Bring a stool specimen with you. Do not feed the puppy within four hours of
the car ride (firsts rides often cause nausea). Bring all the paperwork that
accompanied the pup when you purchased it. Be aware that many States have "pet
lemon" laws that protect you. Puppies should get booster vaccinations every
2-3 weeks for canine distemper, canine adenovirus, leptospirosis, parvovirus
and corona virus. They should also be wormed with pyrantel pamoate every 2-3
weeks. Most puppies come with a few roundworms and many with hookworms. This
is not necessarily the breeder's fault. They should receive a subcutaneous rabies
vaccination at 12-16 weeks of age and two intranasal Bordetella (kennel cough)
vaccinations during this period. You may wish them to be vaccinated for Lyme
disease as well. The reason we give multiple vaccinations is that many of these
vaccines consist of living, attenuated (weakened) virus. If the mother's immunity
(passive immunity) is still present in the puppy, these vaccines do not work.
We give multiple vaccinations because we do not know exactly when the puppy's
immune system is ready to protect it. The 8-9 week vaccinations usually do not
work - they are neutralized by the mother's antibodies within the puppy. But
if we waited until 16 weeks to give these shots, some puppies would have already
caught the diseases. If this is unclear to you, e-mail me at second.chance2@verizon.net
and I will try to explain it in more detail. Keep your puppy away from all other
dogs until two weeks after its last vaccinations. Avoid taking the pup to commons
areas like dog parks public grassy area, parking lots and pet stores as well
until they are twenty weeks old and fully vaccinated. When I examine a new puppy
this is what I do: First I inquire where the puppy was obtained and how long
it has been with the family. I inquire if there has been any coughing, sneezing,
vomiting, diarrhea or lameness. I size up the puppy visually and try to gain
some insight into the family structure and the temperaments of both the owners
and the puppy. Then I examine the dog. I check that the belly button (umbilicus)
the fontanel of the head and the cleft in the palate have closed properly. I
check for fleas and ticks. I check for unstable kneecaps (patella). I check
for ringworm. I clip the puppy's toenails. I check the ears for ear mites or
infection. I check female puppies for vaginitis and males for sheath infections.
I check for puppy dermatitis. I listen to the heart to detect murmurs and listen
for healthy lung sounds. I palpate the puppy's abdomen to judge the condition
of the gastrointestinal tract. I check the eyes with an ophthalmoscope looking
for defects and the ears with an otoscope. I check for laxity in the hips. I
run a fecal examination for parasites. Any of these exams that are suspicious
are followed up in detail. I answer any questions the owner may have.
7) How Do I Get My Puppy Used to Its New Home?
train puppy
An 8-12 week-old puppy gets over the loss of its littermates and mother
quite quickly. All of the family members should take turns playing with
and holding the puppy. Alternate play times with quiet time in the pen
or room you have prepared for it. Do not worry if the puppy seems anxious
for a few days. Observe that it is eating and drinking normally. It will
probably whimper and wine the first few nights. Please try to ignore this
and not take the puppy to bed with you. Keep the puppy isolated from small
children or other pets in the household for the first week or two. Be patient.
Remember a puppy's attention span is quite short. Also realize that puppies
do not gain control of their bowels and urination until they are 16-20
weeks of age. So don't criticize it for accidents. I generally suggest
the puppy continue on the same diet the breeder was feeding unless it was
a low quality diet. Price generally determines diet quality. If I do change
diets, I do so gradually. Puppies need lots of sleep. They do well when
air temperature is between 65-78 degrees F. Each puppy is an individual.
If sights and sounds frighten it, modify the environment accordingly. Go
by a pet supermarket and purchase a loose-fitting light-colored nylon collar.
Purchase it a few sizes too large and punch more holes with a hot nail.
Use an indelible marker to write your telephone number on the collar. You
can take your puppy for short car rides and let it observe the scenery.
You can splurge on some puppy toys at the pet shop.
8) Are There Some Minor Problems That Are Going to Happen No Mater
What?
Yes. Don't expect your puppy to come when you call its name. This may take a
few months. Don't worry about its short attention span - its normal. If the
puppy falls asleep in the middle of an activity that is normal also. Don't become
upset at broken heirlooms or unwanted presents on the carpet. The fault was
yours in not removing breakable items or getting the pup out the door fast enough.
Remember that bowel control often doesn't occur fully in young puppies. Pet
and touch your pup a lot during this period an do not scold it for errors. Instead,
praise it when it does well, stroke it and give it its favorite doggy treat.
Puppies tend to dream and twitch in their sleep. This is normal. They also get
hiccups quite frequently. They will also have bouts of diarrhea and gagging
after eating cardboard, aluminum foil, etc. Usually no more than a little cat
laxative is required. If diarrhea is bloody or accompanied by abdominal pain,
fever or lethargy, take the pup to the vet's immediately.
9) Why is My Puppy Biting Me?
There are two types of biting, normal playful biting and early aggressive
biting. The former is normal; the latter needs to be immediately attended
to. Playful biting and nipping is one of the most common activities of
a litter of puppies. It is normal behavior. Once you and your family substitute
for their littermates, the pup naturally continues to chew on you. No mater
what the activity, you eventually find your hand inside its mouth. Puppies
have very sharp teeth and soon your hands and arms show it. I have found
that hugging the puppy to your chest while at the same time surrounding
its mouth with your second hand and saying NO! in a stern voice eventually
breaks this habit. Be sure the puppy can breath freely when you restrain
its mussel. This technique will not work if other members of your family
are encouraging rough play and biting. This is often the case with children
and teenagers. Providing plenty of chew toys for your puppy also helps.
Encourage your pet to play with them whenever he greets you. Praise him
when he chews the right things and replace household articles in his mouth
with doggie chew toys. You can also spray bitter apple on your hands to
discourage mouthing. The disadvantage of this is that some of it often
ends up in your mouth and eyes. The second type of biting is much more
serious. It is aggressive biting or, in some cases, fear biting. Aggressive
biting is accompanied by vocalizations (growls) and an intent stare. It
is not a continuous action but a snap, release and retreat. The same restraint
of the mussel will work with these animals- accompany it with a sharp,
loud NO! They also need some dominance training as soon as possible. Aggressive
dogs do not like restraint - they like to be in charge. If you succeed
in restraining them it often changes their entire personality for the better.
I like to roll them in a beach towel and watch television or do some other
activity with them in my lap for 30 minutes to a hour until they realize
that you, rather than he is the boss. Also helpful are mild mannered games
such as fetch, hide-and-seek, sniff-out-the-treat, leash training and romping
play. It is very important that you cure your pet of biting aggressively
before 16-20 weeks of age. The longer the pet maintains this bad behavior,
the harder it will be to break him of it. In a normal pack situation, his
brothers and mother would not stand for such activity. It's your responsibility
to socialize him by teaching him how to control himself in a group setting.
It is important that calm, mature children interact (socialize) with your
puppy so that it does not grow up to bite children. The two reasons mature
dogs bite is because of unrestrained dominance or fear. It is terribly
important that you never allow your pup to bite aggressively without reprimanding
it harshly. Curing this problem the first time it occurs is much easier
than waiting until it has happened three or four times. If you are unsuccessful,
consult a professional. To get your puppy to obey you on this you need
his trust and respect. You win his trust and respect by teaching him general
commands when he is a small puppy. Never become angry at your puppy. He
is just doing what dogs do. Reprimands should always be oral. Approval
can be a stroke, a loving pat and a treat. Getting physical with your dog
only encourages fear biting. The most physical I get is to keep the dog
still against its will - a sort of doggy time out. Another common fault
of owners is inconsistency. The reward or punishment for an action should
always be exactly the same. Puppies and mature dogs reprimand a biting
puppy by biting it back harder. This is why puppies raised in groups rarely
bite their owners or guests. Cure puppies of jumping in the same manner.
l0) How Do I Encourage Good Behavior?
Puppies are never too young to encourage good behavior. Dogs are very astute
in judging their owner's moods and desires and what they can get away with.
They are more intelligent in this respect than any other creature on earth.
The NO! command should not be over-used, but it should be used to discourage
willful negative behavior of all kinds. Good behavior in one respect - say leash
training - makes good behavior in other respects much easier. That is, good
behavior is cumulative and grows on itself. The more you teach your puppy, the
easier teaching him becomes. Fetch, roll over, sit, shake hands, etc. all encourage
good behavior in general. After a while, you and the puppy will be in tune understanding
each other's desires. You will be closer and better friends as well. Many kennels
hold puppy obedience classes. Schedule one soon after your pet has received
its last puppy shots. Follow this up with ten minute training periods at home.
Remember to use praise and stroking much more frequently than NO!s. A good rule
is never to use the NO if you cannot follow it up almost immediately with praise.
Leash training is very important for puppies and dogs in general. It is much
more than keeping them close at hand. The mark of a well trained, happy dog
is a slack leash with the puppy neither lagging behind nor forging forward.
This defines the relationship between you and your pet -you in control, the
pet secure in answering to your command.
11) What Can I Do About Whimpering at Night?
First, be sure the puppy is comfortable, not hungry or thirsty and doesn't
have to go potty. Assuming he doesn't, the hardhearted way of dealing with
this is to ignore it if you can. Eventually the puppy will stop whining
and go to sleep. A ticking alarm clock or radio may reassure him. Sometimes
a soiled garment with your body scent placed in his crate will do the same.
After a night or two, he will stop whimpering and go to sleep relaxed.
This approach may also lessen the likelihood of separation anxiety later
in life. The reason he is crying is that he is a pack animal that beds
down in groups. If you intend to make him (or her) a lap dog, you can place
its crate in your bedroom when you go to sleep. Be sure to take him outside
to relieve himself before placing him in the crate. If you come to reassure
him when he whines, it will reinforce his urge to whimper and make matters
worse. A consolation is that a puppy that begs for your attention by whimpering
is going to be a close member of your family when he grows up. Playing
with the puppy vigorously until he is sleepy just before bedtime also lessens
the problem. Use the NO! command once or twice if he continues to whine.
12) What Should I Feed My Puppy?
There are so many good brands of puppy and dog food on the market today
that it is difficult to recommend a specific brand. However, Purina, now
owned by the Nestle' Company has always produced reliable diets. Their
premium diet is called Purina One. From studies in other animals and my
observation over the years, I believe that most puppy foods are too rich.
They encourage rapid growth that adds unnecessarily early weight and muscle
gain. This overtaxes the body's bones and joints and leads to degenerative
changes such as hip displasia later in life. Many breeders of larger dogs
no longer feed puppy chow. They place their puppies directly on adult dog
chow. This is contrary to the heavy advertising and marketing campaigns
for puppy foods. I suggest that large breeds of dogs be placed on adult
dog chow exclusively and that smaller breeds receive no more than half
their ration in puppy chow the first few month; the rest being dog chow
and dog chow exclusively thereafter. This lengthens their growth period
and period preceding sexual maturity but it does not stunt the dog. It
gives bones and ligaments a chance to keep up with increasing muscle mass.
Ideally, they should gain 40 - 50% body weight per month their first two
months, 15 - 20% a month the next two months and 5-10% per month thereafter
until 12-14 months of age depending on breed. Large breeds reach mature
body weight later than small breeds. The puppies should always remain sleek
with their ribs not showing. If they are thin increase the amount fed.
Feeding the puppy set amounts of food at specific times lets you time its
potty periods as well. Puppies tend to defecate shortly after eating which
helps in housetraining. Do not feed generic or house brands. Do not feed
brands that can only be obtained from a few outlets such as pet shops or
groomers.
13) What Happens When My Puppy is Teething?
When your puppy is 4-5 months of age it will begin to get its permanent teeth.
The first to fall out and be replaced are the pup's incisors or front middle
teeth. This begins a painful time for the puppy. At about five months of age
his canine teeth (fangs) begin to loosen and the gums surrounding them become
inflamed and may bleed. During this time its molars and premolars also loosen
and are shed. The puppy will drool and its appetite may slacken off. Some even
run a fever. His urge to gnaw on things may increase. Feeding moistened food
at this time greatly eases the puppy's pain. He may lap up chicken broth-moistened
dog chow when he would refuse solid food. Luckily, this period is short. On
bad days, you can give the puppy 20mg/10 lbs of baby aspirin (one quarter of
an 81 mg tablet per 10 lbs). Stop if it causes an upset stomach. By the time
the pup's permanent canine teeth are a quarter of the way in the gum inflammation
ceases. In toy breeds, puppy canine teeth sometimes do not fall out and the
permanent canine teeth sprout out just ahead of them. These retained deciduous
(puppy) teeth should be removed when a female is spayed or a male neutered.
If the puppy is mellow, this can also be done with only local topical anesthesia.
14) How Should I Housetrain My Puppy?
When you housetrain your pet you are taking advantage of a dog's natural
tendency not to soil his den. Remember that a puppy has very little bowel
control until he is 16-20 weeks of age. Never scold a puppy when he has
an "accident". Just praise him when he does right. The secret of success
is to start with a "den" area much smaller than your house. A dog
transport
kennel (crate) works well for this. The crate should be no longer than
two times the length of the dog and half as wide as it is long. It should
not be stiflingly small. All systems of housetraining are based on the
fact that puppies have to relieve themselves immediately after walking
up and immediately after eating. As soon as either of these events occur,
carry your puppy outside of the house to a spot you have chosen to be his
bathroom. You will know he has to go when he begins sniffing an area and
circling. You can seed the outside area with some of his stool accidents
that occurred inside the house. When the puppy has an accident in the house,
clean it up immediately with a strong-scented cleaner, take the puppy to
his "bathroom" and praise him as he sniffs around. When the puppy
relieves
himself at his "bathroom" shower praise on him and stroke and pet
him effusively.
Keep this up without deviation - the dog is always supervised and corrected
when he poops indoors and praised when he poops outdoors. You will have
to get up during the night when the puppy wines and take him outside -
before 5-6 months of age they will not be able to hold their bowels an
entire night. The secrets of success are patience, constant supervision
and consistency. Do not deviate from your behavior and the puppy will eventually
fall into line. Some common mistakes are: A) using a crate that is too
large. This allows the pup to use one corner as a bathroom. B) Obtaining
an untrained puppy at an older age - it has already lost its inhibition
about soiling its "den". C) Using doggy blankets or other porous material
in the puppy's crate that holds the odor of feces. D) Not taking the puppy
to the "bathroom" area frequently enough. Young puppies need to be
given
the opportunity to eliminate every hour. E) Not feeding your puppy at fixed,
regular intervals. F) Not supervising your puppy close enough. Remember,
some puppies are just harder to train than others.
15) When and How Should I Begin Basic Training With My Puppy?
All puppies need basic obedience training. It has to start at home. You
may be willing to put up with a wild, rambunctious pet but your friends
and neighbors wont. An untrained pet is also a threat to himself, running
out into traffic, getting into dogfights, getting lost, or jumping up and
injuring the elderly and the young. If you are unsure what to do, puppy
kindergarten class can be a lot of help. Pups need their basic vaccinations
before attending class so, in any case, you will have to train them at
home until they are 20 weeks of age. Training sessions should be short
(about 10 minutes) and frequent during the day. It can be a lot of fun.
Start with the basic No's when he nips playfully and Great Dog! when he
does the right things. Start by tossing a puppy-safe toy and encouraging
him to bring it back to show to you. You can smear a little gravy on the
toy to get his attention. You can begin the process of "sit" and "stay"
but do not expect too much at this age. If he even sits or stays for a
heartbeat, praise him effusively and give him a treat (positive reinforcement).
Get him used to a leash and collar as soon as you can. Be sure to check
frequently that the collar is not to tight. The "sit" exercise helps
curb
dominance and aggression. At the same time that you say sit; hold one hand
open at the pup's neck and with the other, force his rump downwards. A
similar technique can be used to teach "down". Count to five, let
him up,
then praise him effusively and give him a treat. Holding a puppy in an
enforced calm or in a beach towel for ten to thirty minutes also helps
lessen dominance and aggression. Begin touching and massaging every part
of the pup's body including his face, mouth, ears, tail and paws. Every
person in the family should do this. Teaching the puppy to roll on his
back and maintain this position for a few seconds also discourages biting,
dominance and aggression. It is also never too early to train a puppy to
accept brushing, clipping toenails, baths, touching his paws and opening
his mouth to examine it. Puppies should never be allowed to growl at family
members without a sharp admonishment from you. They should never growl
when a family member approaches their food bowel. Leash Training I do not
encourage body harnesses. I see too many undisciplined dogs - harnesses
give them an advantage in tugging. Purchase a woven nylon collar several
sizes too large and melt additional holes through it. I also do not like
long reel-type leashes. The purpose of a leash is to keep the dog next
to you - not to give him latitude to wander. He should wear the collar
at all times and your phone number should be written indelibly on it. Place
the leash on him and start to walk in a straight line. The puppy will leap
ahead. When he does, reverse your direction. He will soon learn that he
needs to pay close attention to you so as not to be yanked frequently.
Yanked does not mean jerked through the air, just jolt him enough to gain
his attention. Ideally, the leash should always be slack. But do not expect
miracles from puppies. Do not walk puppies under 20 weeks of age in parks
where he could pick up parasites or disease. Reward successful behavior
with caresses and treats; ignore unsuccessful behavior. The smaller a puppy
is when you leash train him, the easier it will be on you. Puppies can
pull very hard. Letting a puppy have his own way is not a good way to win
his love. It never works and later in life you both will pay for such an
attitude. Dogs give their love unconditionally to those they trust.
16) How Should I Socialize My Puppy?
A properly socialized dog is a well-adjusted dog. It is neither fearful nor
aggressive when it meets new situations. It is very important that puppies be
exposed to a wide variety of social situations in a non-threatening atmosphere.
This includes, taking him to the veterinarian (take him on a social visit -
not for shots), going to the park, the mall, pet supermarket, children's school
playgrounds, obedience class, etc. Take your puppy for rides in the car - begin
on an empty stomach. Accustom your pet to loud noises. The younger they are
when they are exposed to new situations, the more confidently they will handle
them later in life and trust your decisions. Begin socializing your puppy as
soon as you purchase him but keep him away from areas frequented by other dogs
until he is twenty weeks of age and fully vaccinated. Make your learning sessions
brief. Remember puppies have a very short attention span.
17) When Should I Begin Obedience Classes?
Your puppy should receive his last set of vaccinations between 16 and 18
weeks of age. Allow these shots two additional weeks to fully protect the
puppy; then enroll him in obedience classes. Ask your local veterinarian
which instructors he or she recommends. The best obedience schools are
held by kennels, dog breed societies and your local SPCA.
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